The original material
This cap is made with an antique obi sash traditionally worn for funerals. The kimono outfit called mo-fuku (mourning clothes) is usually black and very sober. It doesn’t display many patterns or decorative elements apart from the ones represented on the obi, the zori (shoes) and the purse, but they have to remain subtle. The ‘motifs’ we can see on the textile is actually created by the weaving technique and no other colour is added to the black. Such items often display natural elements such as clouds or wind flows, and landscapes. Sometimes though, these obi come with a touch of shimmering lamé threads in them.
The original obi is reversible: one side is made of highly textured and satiny silk, and the other is a slightly see-through mesh which is a summer version of the same textile. The motif displayed on both sides are the same and the obi can be used on one side or the other, depending on the season.
On this cap, the satiny fabric was used to make the front panel & peak, and the see-through fabric for the sides.
A similar mofuku obi with touches of lamé threads, before being reconstructed
The summer fabric on the reverse is slightly streaked and transparent
An example of mofuku kimono outfit where the obi is used on the satiny side.